Jean-Francois Merieau has some enviable old-vine vineyards in St Julien de Chedon, Touraine. Sustainably managed, the grapes are hand harvested, wild fermented and the reds see a long maceration before ageing in large old oak barrels. The 'Cent Visages' Malbec is plush and forest-fruited, with layers of depth and subtlety.